![]() Then there is the ball joint or lateral link bolt that may not come off - you can work around a stuck ball joint/lateral link bolt if you do them on-car. It's also quite a bit faster to do them on the car. I have a two-stage, 25 ton shop press - I *could* do wheel bearings that way. It's not that it can't be done - it's that without proper technique and training the potential to damage the knuckle is high. Never had failure from my method done a hundred of them literally. ![]() Mark the camber bolts before knuckle removal and there is no need to realign. If you have to put so much force on a hub or bearing to remove it that you would distort the knuckle, then there is no way in hell a hub tamer is gonna work anyhow and either way you need a new knuckle. I have plates for my press that fit the knuckles perfectly and I've never had a problem with knuckle deforming. No frickin way I can charge people $750 to change a wheel bearing. Well I will continue to buy $100~150 NTN/Koyo japanese bearings and grease them and install them using a press. As I've been saying all along.īearings are $400 without hub, or $450 with replacement hub. Incidentally - this TSB also explicitly states to NOT repack the bearing as they are shipped with the appropriate grease. It also needlessly disturbs the alignment in the front. There is a Subaru TSB on bearing installation that explicitly forbids using a press due to the potential of deforming the bearing pocket and ruining the knuckle.
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